February 2011 - Signs of Free Speech
I was in Hong Kong for the day in early February and had a chance to take in most of the major sights. My last trip to China (the mainland) was in 2003 and unfortunately my visit was cut short and I never made it to Hong Kong. I saw several things during my recent visit that I found interesting...expressions of free speech which were definitely different than what I had observed on the mainland.
During my visit to China in 2003, the absence of free speech was definitely noticeable in a couple of ways. First there was an extremely heavy police presence in places such as Tiananmen Square and even police vans on hot standby to deal with any impromptu protests. During my visit to Tibet it was especially noticeable in several ways: First, there was once again a heavy police presence in the areas where the monks had previously protested for religious freedom. Second, nobody referred to it as Tibet. Instead, it was referred to as Xizang Province and we were even taken to see the monument which was prominently displayed in the town's main square to celebrate "Tibet's Liberation by China" in 1950. Thirdly (and most interestingly), the tour guides in Tibet were not even allowed to acknowledge the existence of the 14th Dalai Lama who fled into exhile in India in 1959. This made for some interesting moments when politically unfamiliar tourists in my group kept trying to get the tour guide to "remember" the Dalai Lama that was alive and "on TV all the time".
The ever popular Peaceful Liberation Monument
built in Lhasa in 2002
Police posted atf the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa - site of previous violence between police and monks |
After you are done checking out my legs, you can
see the two People's Armed Police officers right outside of the
Forbidden City on Tiananmen Square
Obviously, I could not snap pictures of the heavy security presence easily, but there is definitely a noticeable difference between the security presence and atmosphere between the mainland and Hong Kong. While I was in China, I spent some time at the Public Security University where the Ministry of Public Security (MPS) trains its personnel. Among other things, MPS is responsible for monitoring internal dissent groups such as the Falun Gong. Overall, I was impressed with the people that I met, however, they were always quite clear about the fact that "threats to internal security" had to be dealt with. At the time, they were very concerned with Taiwan declaring independence and disruptions to the Beijing Olympics in 2008. Both of those threats seemed to have gone by the wayside for now.
A meeting with some of the senior folks at the Public Security University
in Beijing
In the dorms at the PSU
So for all of these reasons, I was interested to see what the environment would be like in Hong Kong which is now most definitely part of China (since 1997) - though it is now considered a Special Administrative Region (SAR) which operates under a separate set of rules. The Chinese Government describes it as "one country, two systems". So arriving in Hong Kong, the security presence is completely different. No People's Armed Police, no MPS, just the Hong Kong police. There are definitely Chinese flags though.
So, I noticed several expressions of free speech which probably never would have been permitted on the mainland. The first was the "outing" of the secret conspiracy by the CIA to place electrodes in the brains of innocent HK residents. This sign was located right outside of the Peak Tram one of the principal tourist destinations in Hong Kong.
The next and (far more significant example) was a table set up by the Falun Gong right outside of the Star Ferry pier in Kowloon. I was still a bit suspicious as nobody appeared to be manning the table. I even looked over the railing behind the table and didn't notice anyone floating.
Unmanned table at Star Ferry pier in Kowloon
The last (and most significant) example I saw was a large Falun Gong display set up outside of the gondola station for the Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island. The monastery is one of the most popular tourist spots in Hong Kong and the display was set up so that everyone visiting the sight went right by it. Not only did the display support Falun Gong, it actually said Jiang Zemin should be put on trial AND there were two women handing out literature.
So this was definitely an eye opening experience for me. No time (or energy) for a lesson on Hong Kong politics here, but the territory has a Legislative Council (LEGCO) a portion of which is directly elected by the people. The percentage of directly elected leaders is supposed to increase over the coming years. Just yesterday, the LEGCO set the rules for the 2012 election in Hong Kong requiring that the premier not be associated with any political party. This is obviously a bit stifling to the democratic process. Definitely worth watching.
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